FIRST POSTING
MARCH 11, 2016

Dear Friends, Family and Readers,


I'm resuming my blog to give you a glimpse of this marvelous "virtual time machine" of a city. There are few other places where one can see remnants from three thousand years ago and buildings and art from the last twenty five hundred years, often within steps of each other. We have been in Rome nearly three weeks now, so I thought I had better fire up my laptop and begin hurling some of the two thousand photos I snapped so far. We will be here until 21 April, so you should be hearing from me again. 

Synopsis

Late last Sunday afternoon we went into the center of town and hurried to north of the Piazza Navona to a nice small church for an organ concert. The hurried pace was a response to the ever thickening storm clouds overhead. They were arriving about an hour or so ahead of "schedule" -- as if weather could be so closely pinpointed. We did not receive any heavenly blessings, and we did have time to buy a large cannolo for Emil at a bakery a hundred feet away from the church. We had dinner out at the Antica Taverna and took the buses back.

Three operational notes. Much further down you may be able to see a TINY note "see more". Click on that to reach the end of the blog. Also, if you want to skip to the photos without my blather, click on an photo. Last, you should be able to leave a comment, if you so wish. These will be moderated by me (and appreciated).

Ciao, Carol
Details

General Map

Antico Forno on via del Scrofo

Sant'Antonio dei Portughese

Antica Taverna dinner

Piazza Navona whiz-by

Orientation Map. North is UP.

Purple circle is general area highlighted in detail on map below. 

Detail Map     green arrow is where Navona photo was shot,

blue arrow is location of Antica Taverna on via Monte di Giordano.

Rome's rain can be the faintest mist, or a torrent formidable enough to cause even a person with stout, high boots on to nearly faint. Late last Sunday afternoon the sky at first appeared to be promising a mild rain, but it steadily darkened, with heavy clouds pushed under the overhead cloud cover (always a bad sign). We picked up our pace as we scurried north from our tram stop, scarcely pausing to enjoy the familiar sights of splendid churches and palazzi.

We went up modern, straight streets with sidewalks, the Corso Vittorio and the Corso Rinascimento until it became the via della Scrofa. At the via della Stelletta is a fine, tiny Forno or bakery. I've written about it before, and it still has marvelous large cannoli at a very reasonable price. I often have a bread roll or a piece of "pizza al taglio" (pizza by the slice) when they still have some simple ones without the cheese I can not eat.

Antico Forno, seen from the north on via della Scrofa.

A genuine oasis! NO bathroom, no coffee, 

but heavenly treats, bread, bottled water and I think some sodas.

It is very tiny inside, so you order, you pay, 

you say "grazie" (thanks) and happily float away.

(this photo was taken on a sunny day last year) 

St. Anthony of the Portugese

(Sant'Antonio dei Portoghesi)

This church was built in 1624, designed by Martino Longhi, for the Portuguese colony in Rome. There were additions to the church and its chapels during the next century or so, but it has a stylistic unity that is very pleasing. It is a little jewel box of a church, dedicated to St. Anthony of Lisbon, (his birthplace), who is more widely known as St. Anthony of Padua. (this photo was taken last year on a day without threatening storm clouds.)


The rain clouds let loose just as we were arriving at the church. Because we had hurried there, we were about 45 minutes early, but we were able to quietly enter and sat in an empty pew at the back while a Mass was continuing. When the service was over, I was able to wander about with my camera as the church quickly filled for the organ concert.

The main altar. 

Above, the main altar and part of the transept.

Yes, that's REAL marble and gold leaf 

all over this church dedicated to a Franciscan saint. The Order of St. Francis was started on the premise of vows of severe poverty for the monks and nuns, but things do change. 

It isn't my religion, and this is an observation, not a criticism.

The underside of the dome.

Two of the six side chapels. I was standing in front of another side chapel, to give you an idea of the size of this church. Below are some closer in photos of the chapel to the left here.

     

This chapel was sponsored as a family burial chapel by a Giovanni Battista Cimini, to his patron saint, John the Baptist. It was started in 1686, and added to over the next half century. Cimini and his family were obviously fairly rich, to be able to pay for the paintings, marbles and carvings. He was a special provider of perfumes to the Papal Court, and he lived in a house next to the church. Cimini's funerary bust remains one of my favorites of these pieces.

This closer in view was taken a couple of years ago, before the long general cleaning by technicians and restorers done last year.

    

Above, a view of the organ loft and entrance to the church. The single nave is not very wide, but there are many visual treats in this church. Right, a view of St. Anthony in the window also visible from outside the church, again, taken on a sunny day last year. The organ concert was quite nice.

DINNER!

The Antica Taverna, via dei Giordano, photos taken on a sunny day. On warmer days, the plastic awnings come down. On cooler days, there are space heaters and electric heat lamps that make this outside seating area quite cozy. This Taverna will serve meals from about noon to nearly midnight, without the customary break from around 2:30 to 7:30 or 8 p.m. The Taverna is one of the better priced establishments in the entire neighborhood. There are fancier places that might well have wider menus or more elaborate cooking, but this place is a bargain.

Emil's favorite pizza there, "capriccosa" (or capricious style)

After dinner, the rain had (temporarily) stopped, so we decided to walk back to the Piazza Venezia to take the tram home. Rain sprinkles resumed, so this is the only photo from that walk.

END OF THIS POSTING.

all photos 

(except as otherwise noted) 

and text are 

© Carol H. Johnson, 2016.